A 2.5 hr train journey from Madrid, through a stunning landscape of rolling green fields and snow capped mountains, we’ve arrived in León y Castilla and what a beautiful city it is. With a population of approximately 125,000 it is just the right size, in my opinion. There are parks, flowers, fountains and beautiful architecture (including some of Gaudi’s inspiration) at every turn. Not a place that would normally feature in any tourist brochure, it is all the more charming because of it. And our home here for 3 days before the big trek to Santiago commences, is the hotel ‘Parador San Marco’. I can’t really begin to describe this beautiful place which, in it’s past life of over 500 years, has been an military stronghold, a concentration camp during the Spanish civil war and also a monastory, with the friars caring for all the pilgrims travelling through on their journey to Santiago de Compostela.

If only walls could talk, I’d listen for hours to the stories these could tell.

We knew we were being a little indulgent by staying here, but the reality is so much more than we could have imagined. On the banks of Rio Berenesga and on the edge of the old town, we could not have chosen a more spectacular, comfortable and convenient place to stay.  As for León, we’ve arrived during Samana Santa (Holy Week), in the lead up to Easter, so there are processions, music, balloons, food and celebrations everywhere.

The atmosphere is just spectacular and all the more so as it was so unexpected, we were totally unprepared for the extent of ‘la festa’.

And it has to be said that the Spanish know how to have a great time!  They are so gregarious and love eating, drinking and being merry. How they aren’t all fat I do not know, because tapas arrives with every order of a drink, let alone any actual meals. But what is so prevalent was the focus on their family – beautifully dressed children, young teenagers helping grandparents, large family groups together – it is just so refreshing to see.

We walked for hours taking it all in, soaking it up. The weather is fantastic, not hot, but definitely  a little warmer than I would have preferred, looking down the barrel of 300+klms, but it is just perfect for sight seeing. And at least we won’t be hiking in torrential rain, if this keeps up. In any case, we’ll have to deal with it,  but in the meantime, we’re just loving it.

I love to go mass when we travel and this holiday is no different. With Easter looming, it has all the more significance and as the Cathedral San Marco is attached to our hotel, it made it easy.

The service of course was in Spanish, but it didn’t matter. I loved it all the same – the calm, the history, the formality and the air of peacefulness, it was just beautiful and just what was needed after our very full day.

Tomorrow we are off to visit the Panteon San Isidore, which looks to be outstanding, but due to the celebrations has been closed so far. And tonight we’re heading out to some tapas bars…after all, when in Rome, as they say!

 

I’m still feeling the effects of jet lag, although it is improving thankfully. Fingers crossed I don’t see 4am tomorrow morning, unless of course that’s when we are staggering home from our night out! 🙂

xx

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