…but more of that later.

It’s been a few days since we last spoke, so I think it’s high time I put pen to paper, so to speak..

Our walk from Villafranca del Bierzo to our next accommodation at Las Herrerias del Valcàrcel (22klms) was delightful. The landscape changed considerably, and was so much greener and lush. The route itself was not too taxing, although it wasn’t a stroll in the park either. We met some mad South Africans, two married couples travelling together, to celebrate a 50th birthday. They are hilarious, so much fun. How they manage to keep up the pace is surprising though, as at each stop, out comes the beer, bread, chorizo and Southern Comfort! We’ve joined in a few times, but with maybe another 10 or 12 klms to go, it’s just too hard to get the enthusiasm to get going again. The weather now we are higher up in the mountains is cooler, thankfully, although still very hot if we are walking after 2.30 or 3pm. Our accommodation in Las Herrerias was at the Posada Real Paraíso del Bierzo, a gorgeous country inn.
The view from our balcony was of a trout filled mountain stream, green meadow and very contented cows. Pretty idyllic really. After settling in, we walked into town and joined our other fellow travellers for happy hour. A mixed bag of American, Lithuanian, Irish, South African, English and of course, the rowdy Australian’s. It was a great night.

The walk from Las Herrerias to O’Cebreiro the following day was 13 kilometres only. BUT, it was straight up! Absolutely brutal, no other way to describe it. Halfway up, we realised that there had been an option to hire horses for the climb, which 5 or 6 very smug looking pilgrims had decided to do, so I wish they had shared that particular gem of information. Nothing for it but to push on, but I cannot begin to describe how difficult it was. There were 2 tiny towns on the way, so we took full advantage of a rest stop at each, chatting to others who were also struggling on. As difficult as it was to walk, there were some crazy bike riders who were attempting to do the same thing. Amazing? Stupid? Or maybe just both.

However, we made it. Kate much quicker than me, as her legs are twice as long as mine. She’s like the hare and I am the tortoise, particularly when climbing mountains is required.  I don’t recall that becoming mountain goat was ever on my wish list, but it seems that walking the Camino means that now I can give a damn good impression of one.

While the climb was horrific, the views were just spectacular, so it was worth it in the end.  I definitely appreciated it, once I stopped swearing…

O’Cebreiro is a tiny town,  albeit with 6 pubs, right on the peak of a mountain. Freezing cold, but absolutely charming. It was party central at night, of course, as it offers the only accommodation for miles around, so there was a pub crawl underway by early evening. We went to bed at 10ish, but the festivities continued on until all hours.

I think the alcohol must have warmed everyone up because, in a temperature in minus figures, almost all of the guys just had shorts and thongs on. Oh and a beanie, to keep their heads warm.   Ahh, to be young again!!

Up early the following day, for another walk. Down the mountain this time which, strange as it sounds, is more difficult than trekking uphill, as your toes press forward in your boots,. That said, even with sore toes, I really loved this part of the walk. Another 22 klms, but through scenery reminiscent of Switzerland or Bavaria. I fully expected Julie Andrews to come skipping through the wild flower covered fields at any moment. Honestly, it was so beautiful, it took my breath away. We are now in the Galicia region and had been told it was lovely, but we still weren’t prepared for how delicious it was. Our destination was Triacastela, where we are staying for 2 nights. We’d factored in a few rest days along the way, thank goodness, and we revel in them. A chance to do some washing, sleep in, dawdle about and give our feet and toes a much needed rest. Last night we had dinner with some new friends, Debbie and Lesley, both English, who have been friends for years and who both now live in Spain. They walk different sections of the Camino when they can. It was a lovely, relaxed night and we will be sorry not to walk with them again, as they were staying one night only in Triacastela.

So, how did I come to be sleeping on a park bench?? Well, with washing still damp this afternoon and our departure tomorrow, I thought the best place would be the little sunny plaza, just around the corner from our accom here, at Casa David.

So, with book and water bottle in hand, plus damp clothes on hangers, off I went. Not something I’m much inclined to do in Brisbane, but needs must!!!

Sandals off to give my feet some much needed Vitamin D, I lay down and spent a very relaxing hour or two. Not sure what the locals thought, but I felt great, the washing dried and my feet benefited. A win/win situation, I say!,

Tomorrow we head to Sarria. From here we will be within 100 klms of Santiago, which will mean that I’ve walked 200 klms, even with my taxi day and bus trip. Kate has walked further, closer to 230klms, so we are pretty proud of ourselves. No major injuries either, blisters aren’t included, because everyone has those, but we have seen some major knee, ankle and wrist injuries on much younger people then us, so we consider ourselves very lucky. So I think maybe my ‘slow and steady’ approach has merit….

Snapshots of Triacastela