No, not that sort of down, actually I feel fantastic.

Kate and I have had another of our rest days today, after walking from Palas de Rei to Melide yesterday. Only 15klms ( or thereabouts, given the Spanish indications of distance are questionable at best. We think it was closer to 18klms) it was a relaxed, albeit freezing, walk. The path took us over quite a number of hills, but with no actual mountains to scale, we easily took it in our stride. The scenery again was simply delightful, as we were walking through small farming communities, rolling green fields and wonderfully picturesque little lanes. Storybook stuff, really, apart from the now familiar very strong smell of cow poo and urine. As I said, it’s an agricultural region, so it goes with the territory!

As we’d thought might be the case, it is much more busy on the Camino now, as many people start from Sarria, to become eligible for the certified Credencia. The last 100 klms of the Camino must be walked for this prized piece of paper to be achieved and, as Sarria is 115klms from Santiago, it is the most popular spot for those not wanting to walk the full distance. We have mixed feelings about this, since even with 3 days out for health reasons, I will still have walked approx 360klms by the time we reach Santiago and Kate, closer to 400klms. So to attain the same piece of paper, for walking 100klms only, seems a little unfair. On the other hand, there are people who have walked from St Jean Pied de Port, which is over 800klms, so they would consider our measly 300+klms to be in the same category. Horses for courses…

As mentioned, it was definitely busier on the path and certainly many of those were noisier and less respectful of those who were walking in solitude. However, one of the groups we did come across put the meaning of the Camino into absolute perspective. We both became quite emotional to see a Spanish group of 60 odd young people, half of who were vision impaired. Those without full vision were partnered by a fully sighted carer, who aided them every step of the way. The age range of all in the group would have been late teenage years to mid twenties. They were all laughing and talking as they went along, with no doubt some of the conversation related to explanations of the scenery around them. There certainly did not appear to be any attitude of ‘I’d rather be doing something else’ by those in the carer roles, there was only a sense of friends having a great time, arm in arm. It was simply beautiful to see and a great reminder of the spirit of kindness.

I mentioned that the weather was freezing. After complaining of the hot temperatures we experienced when we commenced our walk from León, the weather has since turned very cold. And we have seen that,  even in León now, there are frosts and, in some parts, heavy rain and snow. So, my initial whinging aside, I think we have been very lucky with the weather, since walking in pouring, freezing rain, or even snow, would have been so much more difficult and challenging.

Yesterday I think the temperature was around 7 degrees, less with the wind chill factor thrown in, but after layering up (I had 4, Kate had 5), we headed off. And not one layer was removed, even after a day of walking, it was so cold.

We met Meha from Korea, a young 24 year old uni student from Seoul, who was studying sociology. She and I had a similar view, in that the people on the Camino are like their own little community, with culture and habits of their own. I also walked for a time with Sam (English) and Gerry (Irish), two young guys travelling together and who were both very interested in talking to an Australian. They were hilarious and I really enjoyed chatting away to them for a time.The Camino is great that way, with many quite intense conversations had along the way. Some are longer than others, however most are only for 10 or 15 minutes, but the feeling of friendship and inclusion is amazing. It’s something we had both read about and been told was what happened,  but we still continue to be amazed and thrilled by it.

Today, our ‘down’ day in Melide, is also very cold, but not as nearly windy and with clear, beautiful sunny skies. We found a lovely little cafe and sat happily in the sun for nearly 3 hours, enjoying a coffee and chat, plus tapas.

We then found a little park to sit in and soak up the warmth. And yes, I must admit to stretching out on a park bench once again. I’m not sure who I’ve become, but I am very partial to a park bench these days!

We are off again tomorrow, walking 20 klms (give or take) to Arzua. Then we are really on the homeward stretch, with Santiago only 40 klms from Arzua. We won’t have any more 2 night stays after Melide, with the main goal now in sight, but we have also made sure we’ve factored in an easy run into Santiago. Our walking distance on each of the last 2 days will only be 10klms, so we should be very relaxed when we finally arrive.

We’re hoping the wet weather than is coming along behind us, does not overtake us, as we’ve had sunshine pretty much all the way so far and would love to keep it that way!

PS. Sorry Jeff, but I found Rue de Shoe in Melide. They were just so pretty, I couldn’t leave them behind, now could I?

à la prochaine…