Well, it’s been quite sometime since I last wrote. Sorry, I’ve been very lax, I know. We have now finished our tour of Spain and Portugal and I thought I should bring you up to date. Being on a tour in isolation is not a good reason for not providing an update but, in my defence, the opportunities to write have been very limited. As well, I have been (and still am) sick with yet another chest infection, so haven’t been exactly feeling in top form. I’m sick of being sick!! But, enough of the excuses, here is a snapshot of what we’ve been up to in the last 2 weeks or so. Best get yourself a cup of tea, a biscuit, and make yourself comfy, this could take a while!!

Madrid: We visited the Prado Museo which was just brilliant. Works by the famous Spanish artists Velázquez, Goya, Murillo and, while not Spanish, but one who adopted the country as his own, El Greco, were all on display and to see them in full, living colour, as it were, was astounding.  I’m always up for an art gallery visit and the Prado certainly exceeded all expectations. It was busy, of course, but we were there early in the morning, so collateral damage was minimised. And we took a side trip to Segovia, approx 1.5 hrs from Madrid, the alcázar of which inspired the castle for Walt Disney’s ‘Sleeping Beauty’. There was also a beautifully preserved Roman aqueduct. (they were just a bit clever, weren’t they, those Romans??) No mortar used either, just brute force and sweat. Oh, and 20,000 massive blocks of granite.

Toledo: ‘Holy’ Toledo indeed, with 80 churches (including 2 cathedrals) and 22 convents within the old town supporting just 10,000 residents, it is a stunningly beautiful small city, sitting high above the Rio Tajo. A maze of narrow, cobbled streets, it was a gorgeous little town to explore and I would have loved to have more time to do it. And we saw El Greco’s most famous painting ‘ The Burial of Count Orgaz’ which is in the church Santo Tomé, and is in it’s original, untouched form. Painted in 1586, it was amazing. Clever El Greco was ahead of his time too. He managed a 14th century selfie of sorts, as he included himself, his wife and his son, in the painting.

Salamanca: Only an overnight stay in this beautiful, very vibrant, university town, unfortunately. But even so, we made the most of it. Plaza Mayor, with it’s 88 arches and adorned with busts of the great and the good, all kept in exceptional condition, except, interestingly, the bust of General Francisco Franco, which is regularly defaced by uni students. On the night we were there, Plaza Mayor was packed, as there was a free concert with a band playing classical music. It was just delightful and the atmosphere was wonderful. The Catedral Nueva was stunning, as all the cathedrals here in Europe are and the facade of Universidad Civil, was also just as remarkable. There is a famous tiny frog included in the intricate detailing around the main door of the Uni and legend has it that, if you can find it, you will have good luck, so looks like I’m up for some good fortune coming my way, then!! At this stage, I’d just be happy with improved health…did I mention I’m sick of being sick???

Porto: The landscape changed dramatically today, from the rolling plains of Spain (and yes, there were some remarks about whether it would in fact rain, did it only rain on the plain and if it didn’t, why the need for such a silly song?? etc etc) to the beautiful, mountainous country of Portugal. The economy is very poor here and it is obviously so, but we thought it absolutely charming. It doesn’t have to be shiny and new to be impressive, the soul of a place has nothing to do with the amount of money spent on it. I would have loved more time in Porto, to explore the little riverside laneways and alleys, but we only had one night here, so it’s absolutely on the list for next time. I’d said before we left home that we’d try port in Porto and we did, at a tasting organised at one the many producers there, Ferreira. The grapes are grown 100 klms away, in the valleys along the River Douro and processed there too, but transported to Porto for the long aging process. I didn’t love it, but I’ve never been a fan of port in any case, so no surprises there, but those who were the aficionados amongst us said it was excellent. Personal tastes differ wildly, as in many things…

Obidos: On route to Lisbon, we detoured into this delightful small village, set high on the side of a mountain. Cork is the primary industry in Portugal and we saw many plantations during our drive there and many beautiful items made from cork were available for sale in Obidos. We sampled Ginjinha, a liqueur made with sour cherries, infused in brandy. It wasn’t too bad at all, I must say. While Obidos was very pretty, it was a little too touristy for me, but Jeff and I found a tiny cafe with a walled garden, away from the busyness and relaxed with yet another, freshly squeezed orange juice. I won’t be able accept anything less than fresh, when we get back to Brisbane!!

Lisbon: Beautiful, just beautiful.  And Jeff and I had arranged to meet Tânia for dinner, who is beautiful too! It was lovely not being a tourist for a night, but just having dinner with a friend. We also opted out of a side trip to the Portuguese riviera, in preference for a walk around this beautiful city, have a coffee, people watch and soak it in. Chris and Robyn from our tour group came with us and we loved our day together, strolling Avenida de Liberty. We visited the Belèm Quarter, where in the past, sailing ships set off to discover new lands. All that listening in history lessons paid off too, as the names Vasco de Gama, Magellan and Christopher Columbus (plus many others) were regularly bandied about, so I knew who they were and what they had done, but it’s a bit mind blowing to realise you may be standing in the exact spot as they had. I just love the idea of it. Of course we tried the famous Portuguese custard tarts ‘Pasteis de Belèm, which were absolutely….yum!! An evening at a Fado restaurant, in the Bairro Alto, was a great night out. A bluesy, melancholic style of singing, which we had seen on TV and both enjoyed, it was just wonderful to experience in the flesh. Songs were sung by both male and female performers and it was a great way to finish our stay here. We left Lisbon, passing over the Tagus River on the famous 24 de Abril Bridge. At over 2 kilometres, it is the longest suspension bridge in the world.

Seville: We will definitely be returning to ‘Sevilla’, it is absolutely gorgeous, no other way to describe it. And just the  right size too, in my opinion. It has everything you need, but not too much of it. And orange trees everywhere. They are used as street and park plantings and why not?? They provide thick shade, ideal in the extreme summer temps experienced here, oranges (needed, of course, for all that fresh juice!) and, when in flower, the orange blossom perfume would be just divine. Jeff and I again opted out of a side trip to Córdoba, preferring instead to wander for hours and lose ourselves in the old city alleyways. While neither of us agree with the sport of bull fighting and certainly did not want to see it, we did want to learn more about the history and so also took ourselves along to do a tour through the local Seville bullring.

It was so interesting. Successful Matadors are held in very high esteem, almost god-like really, but their lifespan is not a long one. And it’s a sorry day for the bull. We hadn’t realised that they are all killed by the matador at the finale, which only further reinforced our dislike of the sport. In Seville, bull fighting is held every Sunday during the season, from April to October and 6 bulls die each and every time. But the sport is apparently becoming less and less popular in Spain, with many bullrings now utilised as concert arenas or museums, particularly in the south.  Like it or not, it is something woven into the fabric of current and historical Spanish life. To end our stay in Seville, we went to a Flamenco night (excellent) and then were taken back to our hotel in a horse and cart, which was fabulous.

I called out ‘Hola’ to everyone we saw, which I loved, but I think our driver was probably less enamoured..

Gibraltar: Before we left Australia, I’d been excited that we would see the Rock of Gibraltar and also, hopefully, views of North Africa, since it is only 14 kilometres between the two, across the Strait of Gibraltar. The rock didn’t disappoint, but unfortunately the weather was cold and very cloudy, so we could see only a faint view of the African coastline. Passport control into and out of Gibraltar is very ‘relaxed’, shall we say. On the way in, I probably could have held up Jeff’s and no questions would have been raised. On the way out, I needn’t have bothered even getting any passport out at all, mine or otherwise, as the immigration guy was too busy having a chat with some friends and didn’t even glance our way! Gibraltar is tiny, built as it is, around and upon, the rock, which is all dominating. Under British control since 1704, the shops are all British brands ie Debenhams, Marks and Spencer’s etc and the cafe’s all had British favourites on the menu ie fish and chips, pie and mushy peas, egg and chips etc. It’s very high density living there and I’m not sure it would be my cup of tea, but it was very interesting to visit. And we saw families of the Barbary macaque monkeys high up on the Rock, which were very cute, exceedingly cheeky and which live in the wild there. Interestingly, there is an airport in Gibraltar and the rock has been sheered away on one side, to allow for the runway to be built. It’s an extremely dangerous approach and departure, with the rock on one side, the Mediterranean Sea at one end and the Atlantic at the other. Excellent pilots only need apply!!

Costa del Sol – Torremolinos: 2 nights in a hotel facing the Mediterranean ocean was a timely break. We had the option to take a tour into Malagas, but we elected instead to book a cabana on the beach and just relax. Jeff bravely went swimming, as the water was very, very cold, but I preferred instead to lay in the shade and read my book, or people watch. It was a lovely day and much needed. Seafood for dinner, cooked over hot coals..

Granada: the temperature in Granada was 38 degrees and, as anyone who knows me well knows, hot temperatures and I do not mix well. I was also still very ill, so my impressions of Granada are hazy, to say the least. We did visit the Alhambra, but unfortunately, our entry was only into the gardens, not the palace. While beautiful, it was just too hot to enjoy them. I’d like to go back in cooler weather and better health, to give it the benefit it deserves.

Valencia: Another beautiful city, also with orange trees as street plantings. Our hotel was in the Arts and Science area, which was very modern and very beautiful. We walked throughout the old town, which is stunning.  Jeff and I tried the local delicacy ‘hortachas’ which is a light, sweet bun, then dipped in a liquid made from ground tiger nuts mixed with water and sugar. Unusual, but not unpleasant. I wouldn’t go back to Valencia just to have it again, though. Paella for dinner, prepared with rabbit and chicken, which is apparently the traditional recipe, not with seafood, as most people imagine (myself included).

Peniscola: we stopped briefly in this tiny town for a coffee, on our way to Barcelona. It was really quaint, quiet ( at least it was when we were there) and on the Mediterranean coastline. I was determined to dip my toes in, regardless of how cold the water might be. I did and it was!! Jeff and I, along with Bev and Barry ( both Queenslanders, from Redcliffe) searched out a tiny boutique hotel ‘La Mar’ in the shade of the castle, but directly overlooking the beach to have our coffee. We could not have found a more picturesque spot to enjoy it.

Before arriving in Barcelona, we stopped at a wine producer ‘Castellroig’ to sample the local speciality ‘cava’. Not the awful, dirty sock tasting drink from Fiji, Spanish cava is a delicious white sparkling wine. It was a very warm day, so there were some enthusiastic participants!!

Barcelona: the home of Antoni Gaudi and evidence of his brilliance is everywhere here. Parque Guell, with it’s longest bench seat in the world, multiple buildings on city streets and of course, the Basilica Sagrada Familia. Commenced in 1882, it is still under construction 135 years later, using the original plans drawn by Gaudi. It’s magnificent. His work may not be to everyone’s taste, but even if not,  you can’t help but be impressed by his genius. He was a very clever, clever man.

Jeff and I have extended our stay in Barcelona to ensure we make the most of this beautiful, bustling and wonderful city. The tour finished yesterday and we are now comfortably settled in our apartment, just a 5 minute walk from the Sagrada Familia, but in a quiet, suburban street.  We’ve been to the local fresh food market and supermarket and bought what we needed for a few days,  I’ve done my usual ‘nesting’ (which means washing is all done and there is a bowl of fruit on the table!) and we’re both enjoying the space and the independence. Our phone and laptop’s are not the only things being recharged at the moment…

So, my thoughts on bus tours, since this was the first time we had ever travelled this way?? On the upside, we met some lovely, lovely people with whom we will definitely keep in touch. And we saw some spectacular places. Neither of us had to drive either, so we could both appreciate the scenery. The bottom line is, everything is done for you, so you can sit back and relax. Depending on your tour director (and ours was outstanding) the information received along the way, including local hints and tips, is also a great bonus.

And the downside? The clock. The early starts and the inability to stay longer anywhere, if you wished, to enjoy the place you are in, rather than dashing to the next one. There was very limited personal time too which, in this case at least, meant that I could not rest as much as I needed, in order to get better. There just wasn’t the opportunity. And we had meals and coffee breaks in roadside service station cafeteria’s, due to the tour schedule, neither of which we have chosen to do in the past, nor would do again.

This type of holiday travel obviously suits a lot of people and that’s great, but it’s not for us. Not at this stage anyway and, after conversations with others during the tour, we are certainly not alone in our opinion. We definitely both want to come back to both Spain and Portugal, just not on a bus.

So, for the conceivable future, we’ll continue having holidays our way, so I’ll be starting to plan the next one as soon as we get home….:)

The French stage of our holiday begins on Monday when we fly to Bordeaux, but in the meantime we’ll see what else Barcelona has to offer, at our own pace…

 

xxx