Where has that time gone? It’s been weeks since I last put pen to paper, so to speak, but it’s not been deliberate. Oh no, in fact we’ve been almost run off our feet, with social engagements, morning coffee, side trips to other regions, gardening, painting and searching out brocantes, for that elusive something, that I don’t know I need (or want) until I see it.

So, it’s going to be a doozy, folks, and in no particular order…

Social Engagements:

I mentioned in my last post that we had been invited to afternoon tea, at the house of another couple in our little crew of eight, Deb and Steve. Their beautiful house, only a 5 minute walk from ours, was the perfect backdrop for coffee, strawberry cheesecake and sausage rolls (yes, sausage rolls!!!) all homemade and absolutely delicious. On a cool, but spectacularly sunny April afternoon, we sat in their courtyard and talked for hours. It was one of those dreamy, lazy days, when time just drifted by. We loved it.

We were invited by our friends, Josiane and Claude, to dinner at their home. We first met them back in 2017, when we were staying in Montmorillon. After my ‘little’ walk of 350klms with my friend Kate, across the northern part of Spain, our Camino was followed by another few weeks touring around Spain and Portugal. My feet needed a rest and my French needed improving after speaking Spanglish for 6 weeks, so two weeks in a little French house in rural France, seemed like the perfect remedy. And it was. The people we met then, became good friends and all are even better friends now. Josiane and Claude are two of those friends, so we knew we were in for a great night. Sandra and Ben, a South African couple we met in 2019, and who are now neighbours to Josiane and Claude, were invited for dinner too. It was a loud, funny, warm and wonderful evening. And late. After an early start, followed by apertifs, dinner, coffee, cigarettes and cognac, we finally arrived home at 1am. Fabulous…

Sandra and Ben invited us for aperitifs at their house. A house we had seen online, back in 2017, and considered buying. Me, for the garden, Jeff for the position right on the river. We decided it was too big for what we wanted, because it wasn’t going to be our full time home. Sandra and Ben bought it the following year and moved from South Africa, to take up permanent residence. Their initial plan had been to come to Europe for an extended holiday, but ended up finding the house and deciding to live permanently in France. A bit of a surprise for their children, who had thought they would just be receiving the obligatory holiday snaps from their parents! It was a delightful evening, with lots of laughing and great conversation. Sandra speaks some French and, like Jeff, Ben very little, so it was not a night for practicing our second language, it was English all the way. Yet another late night. Street lights are turned off at midnight here, so we walked home through pitch black, medieval streets, lit only by our mobile phones. There’s something quite surreal about that…

“C’est toujours le bon moment…”

We had a little birthday celebration ‘chez nous’, for our friend, Martine. It was a great afternoon, with lots of laughing. Also lots of French, as she can speak almost no English, except for Yes, No, Right, Left and Stop. It was an accelerated advanced French class for me, but it’s either sink or swim in these situations and I choose to try and swim. And without a lifejacket. Petra and Sylviane came too, so it was a convivial coterie. Jeff elected to be our barista for the afternoon and did an admirable job. He gets a real kick out our little French get togethers and, as an added bonus, he learns a few new French words too!

We’ve had dinner several times at La Grillade, an open air, casual eatery here in town. With magnificent views, and not a bad burger, it’s a great place to have an easy night out. Our Australian crew have often kept us company, which makes for much hilarious banter, but we also cover current events too, so it’s a balanced affair. It’s a great way to spend a few hours and we love it.

Pat and Keith, English friends who have lived here for many years, came to dinner recently, along with Suzanne, an American friend from Michegan. Suzanne, with her husband Philip and children Madeleine and Sophia, bought a holiday house here in 2019. She was here on her own, for just for a few days and, although unplanned, it was so fortuitous that our visits overlapped. After two and half years, it was miraculous really, to realize that we would both be here at the same time, even if only for a short while. It was a hot night, and so we sat out on our terrace until very late, enjoying the food, wine, coolness and companionship. Pat, Jeff and I waved Suzanne off at the train station this morning. She feels as I do, the pull of this place….

Morning Coffee

A caffeine fix has always been an inclusion in our day, and sitting sipping a hot café au lait, in a little medieval town in the middle of rural France, just makes it all the more enjoyable. With long daylight hours now, whiling away an hour or two most mornings, does not at all feel like a waste of our time. In fact, it’s a great way to start the day. The temperatures are now definitely warming up, so we’ve enjoyed many a morning with Petra and Sylviane, sitting outside at Le Palais, Le P’tit Gourmand or on the lovely terrasse at La Victoire, with a café in hand. We’ve even become just a little bit French, and bought a croissant or pain aux raisin to enjoy at the same time. Still no dunking, though…

Châteaux and Cité Plantagenet, anyone?

Back in 2019, long before any of us had ever heard of anything called Covid, I booked some accommodation at the beautifully elegant, Château de la Ruche (@chateaudelaruche). We had hoped to stay there in April 2020 but, of course, life had other plans. Fast forward to 2022 and, with our deposit so kindly held for us, we finally made our way to this spectacular accommodation. The journey should have taken about 3 hours, had we chosen the direct route but, as is our way, we altered the GPS so that we would take no toll or motorways. It’s always a good decision and we invariably come across the most glorious and unexpected places. We stopped for a coffee break at Richelieu and strolled around the famed Cardinal’s private parkland. With a huge chateau, acres of spectacularly beautiful parkland and an entire town named after him, that poor man really had it tough, didn’t he? 😉 Further on, we found the little village of Asnières sur Vegres, an absolute gem and a real step back in time. It was just beckoning to be explored, so we didn’t turn down the invitation. Our fabulous day took a little downward turn, when we realized that there were, in fact, two towns with the same name and we had, inadvertently, been following the GPS directions for the incorrect one. In the opposite direction to where the chateau was located. Thankfully, we realized our mistake sooner rather than later and, 2 hours after we had initially planned, but still in full daylight, we arrived at Château de la Ruche. What can I say about this fabulous place? The owners, Rebecca and Tim, along with their two little boys, bought the rundown 18th century petit château five years ago and have been renovating it since, largely by themselves. Their eye for detail and hard graft, has resulted in a beautiful home, and a warm and welcoming accommodation for visitors. We had booked to have dinner at the château as well, which was delicious and entirely prepared by Rebecca. We felt very indulged and were really disappointed that we had not booked to stay for longer. It’s definitely on our list for repeat visits, so everyone who is planning to come and stay with us, this year or next, please let us know. It’s understandably very popular, and we’ll need to get in quick!

“Watch with glittering eyes, the whole world around you..”

~ Roald Dahl ~

Our next stop on our little tour, was the small city of Le Mans. Renowned mainly for it’s 24 hour car race each year, it’s also a beautiful place to visit, with the Cité Plantagenet, the absolute highlight. Make sure you wear comfortable shoes when you go, as cobblestones are everywhere and climbing quite few stairs is required, but every stair and every step, is worth it. It’s a living, breathing history lesson being here in France and we just absorb it all…..

We stayed in a great Chambre d’hôte in Le Mans, Les Lamartine. Beautifully clean, luxuriously comfortable, tastefully decorated, in the centre of town, walking distance to everywhere we wanted to go, and with free street parking, it was a fabulous find and exactly what we needed. Louisette, the owner, was welcoming and very friendly too, so it was a win all round.

On our return trip home we decided, once again, to take the sideroads, but this time in a different direction. This decision resulted in an unexpected windfall. It seemed that, around every corner and bend in the road, we came across several châteaux, each of them remarkable. Most, privately owned. There is no question that they’re beautiful, spectacular even, but we wondered how do they afford to heat them, in the freezing Winter’s here? Many perhaps, might close them up, and decamp back to an apartment in Paris, until the weather warms up? With our own ‘petit château’ of only two bedrooms very easy to keep cosy, it’s not something we’ve ever needed to worry about. But discussion regarding heating costs aside, it certainly made our drive home even more memorable. Let’s face it, we don’t come across too many châteaux, in Australia! None, in fact….

Our little town is only an hour from Limoges but, until this holiday, we had yet to visit this well known city. A comfortable train trip later, we arrived at the beautiful Gare de Limoges. Porcelain is what Limoges is famed for, but there is so much more to see here. Apart from beautiful cathedrals, churches, undercover market (les Halles) and colombage houses, it is also home to that holy grail of shopping….Galeries Lafayette!! Now, some might say that heading into what is effectively, a large dress shop, when there is so much else to see, might be deemed as a waste of time, but my view is that all types of French culture should be experienced. Readers of my blog would know that I am a confirmed aficionado of Galeries Lafayette in Paris, so I felt it my absolute duty, to give the Limoges version the same level of attention. Deb and Steve had kept us company on our Limoges excursion and, luckily, Deb too, was very keen for some retail therapy. A kindred spirit, indeed! No shoes for me unfortunately, but I did buy a rather nice, white top. Deb also came home with several purchases. And we still had time for a delicious lunch, a great coffee and sightseeing at the the aforementioned cathedrals, churches and market! A successful day, wouldn’t you agree?

Gardening:

Working in our garden has been really rewarding. It’s great exercise of course, digging, pruning and pulling out weeds, but to see the results unfolding, little by little, is something of a revelation. But sometimes it’s when we’re sitting back, gazing out at our hard work, with a coffee or wine in hand, which brings the unexpected surprise. We now have two tiny little red squirrels (écureuils) who have decided that our garden is the perfect place to play! They are delightful to watch and their distraction is the cause of many a cold cup of coffee. We’ve got two little robin red breast birds, who sing to us every morning and hop around on our terrace. And we’ve got ducks who we feed from our river terrace. Stale baguette is their meal of choice and, let’s face it, is very easily come by in this ‘Land of Bread’ that we’re living in.. The bitey insects that almost warrant a blog post of their own, continue to shower me with their adoration, but I think I’m onto them now. A trip to the pharmacie for some heavy duty spray and cortisone cream puts paid, somewhat at least, to their shenanigans. I’ve still got itchy spots though, so the fight continues..

Our garden is blooming riotously, with peonies, roses, lilies, jasmine and all sorts of shrubs and bushes yet to be identified. And we’ve got an elderflower tree, the flowers of which, apparently make a great cordial or even an infusion for gin. That’s surely worth a try, isn’t it?

Bits and Pieces:

In amongst the whirl of coffee, apéritifs, déjeuner, dîner, châteaux, sightseeing and shopping, we do actually do some housework, pay bills and wash our clothes. I know, it’s ridiculous, right?? But, needs must, so today is that day. A down day, to rest, recuperate and recharge. It’s not hard though, sitting here, with our washing blowing in the breeze, and the birds singing outside, to stay still and just look and listen. For me, not much more than that is needed, to feel rejuvenated…

Job done, then…..

Bises